In this article, we will look at how to care for your natural gemstone jewellery. Depending on the type of gemstone, the care you need to take varies. For example, colored gemstones are not as durable as diamonds. Natural pearls and opals, on the other hand, contain water and you have to be careful not to let them dehydrate and crack. For your convenience, the individual sections of this article will present jewellery care according to the main types of natural gemstones used in jewellery.
Impact of Temperature and Light on Jewellery
Some gemstones are sensitive to sudden temperature changes such as emerald, garnet, kunzite, opal, peridot, quartz, tanzanite, topaz and tourmaline. Soaking in the sun and then plunging into a pool runs the risk of the stones cracking from the sudden temperature change. The risk is even greater if you wear them in a sauna and then take a cold shower as the temperature shock will be even greater.
For some stones you should avoid exposure to heat altogether. For example these are emerald, kunzite, malachite, opal, red tourmaline and turquoise. Do not leave them near a heat source and if possible do not wear them when going to the beach. Heat can fade the color of amethysts, kunzites and red tourmalines. Opals, malachites and turquoises can crack. On the other hand, heat can dry out the oils that fill the cracks in emeralds.
Jewelry Cleaning
When cleaning stones, you should be careful to make sure that the stone or metal that the jewelry is made of is not affected by various chemicals or acids. For example, pearls, malachite and turquoise are sensitive to various chemicals. Ammonia and acid solutions as well as various products such as perfumes and cosmetics can harm them. Various alcohol and acetone based solvents will gradually dissolve the fracture filling in emeralds as well as other oiled or filled stones. Solvents can adversely affect dyed lapis, dyed jade, dyed pearls as well as other gemstones that have undergone artificial dyeing. Chlorine can crack or corrode gold alloys. For this reason, it is not advisable to enter a swimming pool wearing your gold jewelry.
The safest way to clean your natural stone jewelry is by washing it in lukewarm water using a liquid soap with a neutral pH that does not contain ammonia. You can further clean and remove dirt with a jewelry cloth or glasses cloth. Then dry the jewellery using a soft cloth. If there are still hard-to-reach dirt deposits, you can try cleaning them with a toothpick or a very soft toothbrush (the brush method applies to stones with higher hardness). Keep in mind that using a hard brush can scratch both the metal the jewelry is made of and the stone itself (if it is low hardness).
A common practice, especially for jewelers, is ultrasonic cleaning. Although this method is the most effective you must be very careful when using it. Ultrasound can seriously damage some stones as well as jewellery that has a fine setting. You should also not use ultrasound on oiled or artificially colored stones as well as those that have cracks filled in.
Storage and Care of Your Jewelry
When storing gemstones, it is a good idea to separate them by type. Different stones have different hardness due to which they can scratch each other. Also, the stones can scratch the metal that the jewelry is made of if you store everything in a bunch for example in a jewelry bag. On the Mohs scale, a diamond has a hardness of 10/10 while rubies and sapphires are 9/10, emeralds are 7.5-8/10, opals are 5.5-6.5/10, and gold is only 2.5-3/10.
At Efir, we always recommend making a habit of removing all valuable jewelry when you're at home doing household chores, getting ready for bed, or going to the bathroom. By doing so, you extend their life, protect them from dirt, scratches and wear. With this little habit, your jewelry will last longer in perfect condition and will need less maintenance. If you still want to wear your jewellery every day without taking it off, at Efir we will advise and select the most suitable gemstones for you and tailor the design to protect it and make it durable enough.
Before we look at the care of each individual stone, we would like to point out that any more aggressive cleaning agent (ultrasound, scrubbing, etc) is likely to pose a risk to your jewellery. A lot depends on how securely the gemstones are set,do they have worn prongs, bands or other weak spots that you can mechanically damage.
Gold Jewelry Chain
Because as mentioned gold is a soft metal, especially in its higher 18 or 20 karat samples, it is very susceptible to scratches. Polished gold jewellery gets scratched, brushed gold jewellery gets tarnished, so if you want to keep it in perfect condition it needs periodic maintenance by a jeweller to erase fine scratches or to re-mat. Over what period of time depends on how often you wear them and how much you protect them.
Few people know that white gold actually yellows as well, and a rhodium coating is put on each piece to give it the familiar "white" color. Over time, especially with rings, it wears off and it is possible that your jewellery will change colour. The coating can be renewed again at a jeweler's for a modest cost.
Diamond Jewelry
Keeping diamond jewelry clean is a challenge because diamonds attract and retain grease. For this reason, diamonds can be coated with all sorts of greasy substances, including lotions, conditioners and natural leather oils.
A safe and easy way to clean a diamond ring is to soak and wash it in warm water using liquid soap. It can then be dried with a soft lint-free cloth. Ethyl alcohol, ammonia solutions and jewellery cleaning solutions can also be used to clean and soak diamond jewellery. Alcohol has the advantage of evaporating quickly and leaving no stains. However, alcohol and ammonia can damage other types of gemstones, so check with your jeweler before using them on anything other than diamond jewelry.
Diamonds with filled cracks should not be cleaned in solutions that are acidic or contain ammonia. Otherwise, these solutions can cause gradual discoloration, tarnishing or degradation of the fillings with which the cracks are filled.
Ruby and Sapphire Jewelry
Rubies and sapphires are some of the most durable stones. Their hardness, resistance to chemicals and wear make them the ideal choice if you want to own a piece of colored gemstone jewelry for everyday wear. With the exception of diamond, no other natural stone is as hard as sapphires and rubies.
Unlike emeralds, ultrasonic cleaning is considered safe for sapphires and rubies. It is also the most effective and easiest way to clean them. However, there are cases when these methods are not advisable and pose a risk such as with the following stones:
- Black Star Sapphires
- When stones have cracks
- Glass filled tubes
- Oiled or artificially dyed stones
You can soak rubies and sapphires in lukewarm soapy water, using a liquid soap with a neutral pH. Clean and remove dirt with a jewelry or glasses cloth. If there are still hard-to-reach layers of dirt left, you can try cleaning them with a soft brush or toothpick.
Emerald Jewelry Makeup
When emeralds, you need to be careful when caring for them because some cleaning methods can harm the stones.
Avoid cleaning emerald jewelry using ultrasound. Emeralds by nature are stones that very often have cracks that are usually filled with oils. Ultrasound can remove the oil or contribute to further cracking of your stone.
Avoid soaking emeralds in soapy water. Soap removes the oils as it can also dissolve the oils that have filled the cracks of the stone. Instead, clean the emeralds with a damp cloth, wash in cold water, then dry on a lint-free towel. If there are still hard-to-reach layers of dirt, you can try cleaning them with a toothpick.
Never soak emeralds in alcohol, acetone, or paint solvent. These are liquids that will quickly dissolve the oils that have filled the cracks of the stone.
Avoid keeping emerald jewelry near a heat source and, if possible, do not wear it when going to the beach. Heat can accelerate the evaporation of oils from the cracks of the stone.
Pearl Jewelry
Pearls are relatively soft - between 2.5 and 4 on the Mohs scale. Because of this, they should not be left with other gemstones during storage and transport to prevent damage.
Besides being soft, pearls can also be easily damaged by various chemicals and acids such as vinegar or lemon juice. They can turn brown or dry and crack from high heat.
How to clean pearls
Because of the low hardness of pearls and their low resistance to heat and various chemicals, you should take special measures when cleaning them. Please keep the following few things in mind:
- Do not use commercial jewelry cleaners unless the label specifically states that they can be used on pearls. Many contain ammonia, which will damage pearls.
- Never clean pearls with ultrasound. It can damage pearls and wash away the color if the pearl has been dyed.
- Never steam clean pearls. Heat can damage them.
- Never use detergents, bleach, baking soda, or detergents containing ammonia.
- Do not use toothbrushes or abrasive materials to clean pearls. These may scratch their surface. The pearl can be cleaned if necessary with a glasses cloth. You can also use your fingernails if necessary - they have a hardness of 2.5 or less.
Cleaning pearls is not complicated. You can use a glasses cloth. If the pearls have not been cleaned for a long time and are very dirty you can wash them in soap and water. Note that some soaps can damage the pearls so you need to check the label to see if it is pH neutral enough. Once you've washed them put them on a slightly damp cloth to dry.
How to store pearl jewellery
Pearls are made up of about 2-4% water and calcium carbonate as well as an organic binder called conchiolin. If pearls become dehydrated they can become brittle and crack. For this reason, they should not be stored near heat sources or in direct sunlight. Sealed plastic bags are also not a good idea for long-term storage of pearls. They can interfere with breathability and moisture access.
Since pearls are soft they should be stored in something that will protect them from scratching. Jewellery bags or cloth bags are ideal for this purpose.
Pearl stringing
Over time, pearl necklaces can stretch and the string can break. It is therefore a good idea to periodically restring them. At what period this should be done depends on how often they are worn. Nice pearls should be strung with silk cord that has knots between each pearl. This will prevent them from rubbing against each other. Also, if the string breaks, the pearls won't scatter all over the place.
Tips
- Remove your pearl jewelry when you are putting on makeup, using hairspray, or spraying yourself with perfume. These products often contain substances that can harm them.
- Remove your pearl jewelry when showering or swimming. It is not advisable to get the cord wet, besides, chlorine and soap (if not appropriate) can do harm.
- When removing a piece of pearl jewellery - especially a ring - grasp the jewellery by the metal part, not the pearl itself. Mechanical pressure can disrupt the fitting of the pearl and it may fall off (if it is glued).
- Avoid wearing pearls when you are wearing clothes made of rough fabric as it can scratch them.
Opal Jewelry
Opals contain water. This makes them particularly sensitive to sudden temperature changes as well as high temperatures with low humidity. For this reason, you should avoid leaving them in direct strong sunlight (for example, on a desk next to a window) for a long time. Opals should also not be stored next to a heat source or worn to the beach. Otherwise, there is a danger that they will crack.
Clean opal jewellery with a soft cloth, pH-neutral soap and room temperature water. If your opal is a doublet or triplet use the same method, but do not soak it because this can dissolve the glue that holds the parts.
Do not use ultrasound or steam cleaners to clean opals. The heat from the steam cleaner may crack the stone while the ultrasound will be absorbed as opals are porous.
Gem jewelry with garnets, topazes, quartz (amethyst, citrine, etc. Peridot
The safest way to clean them is to wash them with neutral pH soap and a soft cloth or brush. If the stones are mounted on jewelry be aware that the brush may scratch the metal. Usually ultrasound is also safe, but you should be careful that the stone does not contain liquid inclusions. Avoid prolonged exposure to direct sunlight.
Tourmaline Jewelry
Tourmalines are relatively hard-wearing stones and do not require special care except for a few things to keep in mind.
Liquid inclusions are common in tourmalines. Because heat can cause these inclusions to expand, steam cleaning and exposure to sudden temperature changes are not recommended.
Ultrasonic cleaning is not recommended. Great care should be taken especially with watermelon tourmalines and other multicolored tourmalines as the stone may crack in areas where it blends from one color to another.
Rubelite (a variety of tourmaline) can fade over time so it is not advisable to expose it to heat or strong light for long periods of time.
Background
In this article we looked at what care you should take of your jewellery so that it is preserved for as long as possible. Natural gemstones vary in their hardness and wear resistance which is why you should take different care of them. Some gemstones are highly susceptible to sudden temperature changes, others should not be exposed to heat sources and direct sunlight. When cleaning your jewellery, you should be careful that the gemstone or metal is not affected by acids, alcohol, ammonia, chlorine or other substances. You should be especially careful when cleaning your jewelry with ultrasound as this method can damage some gemstones.
Efir offers both jewelry from its own collections and bespoke custom-made jewelry. We only work with natural gemstones and precious metals.
No matter what you choose our Expert Gemologist will help with your gemstone selection and making your dream gold jewelry according to your budget. We are ready to take on any challenge - from classic designs with an emphasis on the central stone to unusual ones.
You can contact us via the contact form, facebook, instagram or our phone number (+359) 898 241940.