Describe the dimensions of the jewellery you imagine in centimetres or millimetres. This will help us calculate the approximate weight of gold needed for its manufacture.
In the table, we have presented the inner diameter of each ring size and the corresponding European size (the size number corresponds to the inner circumference of the ring). For us, the only accurate method to determine the correct size is the use of jewellery measurements. All other methods we have tried result in minimal to significant deviations.
If you have a ring that fits, measure its inner diameter with a caliper.
*For orders we have already taken, we can provide and send jeweller’s measurements for you to take an accurate measurement.
If you have any questions, feel free to contact us for assistance.
| Diameter (mm) | EU |
|---|---|
| 14.3 | 45 |
| 14.7 | 46 |
| 15.0 | 47 |
| 15.3 | 48 |
| 15.6 | 48 |
| 16.0 | 50 |
| 16.3 | 51 |
| 16.6 | 52 |
| 17 | 53 |
| 17.2 | 54 |
| 17.5 | 55 |
| 17.8 | 56 |
| 18.1 | 57 |
| 18.4 | 58 |
| 18.8 | 59 |
| 19.1 | 60 |
| 19.4 | 61 |
| 19.7 | 62 |
| 20 | 63 |
| 20.4 | 64 |
| 20.7 | 65 |
| 21 | 66 |
| 21.3 | 67 |
| 21.7 | 68 |
| 22 | 69 |
Choosing a bracelet length is important, as most bracelets are difficult to shorten and lengthen. Below, we have outlined the recommended steps to help you determine the right length for your wrist.
If you have a bracelet that fits perfectly, measure its length including the clasp.
* Note that there may be a slight difference between your left and right wrist.
The choice of necklace length may depend on the characteristics of your body and the features of the jewellery. As a guide, we have graphically depicted the standard lengths of chains to help you visualize your options.
For centuries pearls have been used in jewellery and have been one of the most prized gems. It was believed that the pearl possessed magical powers and was able to bring its owner prosperity and long life. The oldest written record of pearls dates back to 2206 BC by a Chinese historian. In ancient Persia, a crown of pearls was considered a symbol of divinity and royalty. Pearls were also a preferred wedding gift because they symbolized purity and innocence.
In this article, we will look at the origins and varieties of pearls, which factors affect their price, and many other useful tips and information that will serve you to make an informed purchase of pearl jewelry or simply enrich your knowledge in this area.
In nature, pearls can be found in saltwater oysters or in freshwater mussels. A naturally formed pearl is formed as a reaction to a grain of sand or other irritant entering the body of the mussel. The pearl itself is composed of calcium carbonate (CaCO3) and has a hardness of 2.5-3.0 on the Mohs scale.
Naturally formed pearls are extremely rare and valuable. Even more rare are those with regular shapes that would be suitable for making a pearl jewel. Hundreds of oysters or shells must be found and opened to uncover even one natural pearl, but for centuries this was the only way to obtain them. The first major sources were the Persian Gulf and the Gulf of Mannar located between India and Sri Lanka.
After the discovery of America by Christopher Columbus and before the development of gold and silver deposits in Mexico and Peru, pearls were the main export commodity from the New World. In fact, their export value exceeded the total value of all other goods exported from the New World. One of the most famous, "La Peregrina," weighing 55.95 carats or 11.2 grams, which was owned by Philip II, Mary Tudor, Napoleon III and Elizabeth Taylor, was discovered in America.The first steps to cultivate pearls date back hundreds of years ago in China. However, it was not until 1893 that pearls were first cultivated. Kokichi Mikimoto successfully cultured a whole pearl in Japan. Around 1920 pearl cultivation became economically important, and from 1930 to 1980 it spread to various parts of the world.
According to their method of creation and their qualities, cultured pearls are as close to natural pearls as possible, but human intervention is needed to start the process. Cultured pearls can be divided into saltwater and freshwater.
Saltwater pearls are cultured in oceans, seas, and bays in saltwater oysters, and usually each oyster produces only one pearl, making them significantly more expensive. After the pearl is removed, the oyster can be used one or two more times, but after each time the quality of the final product decreases.
The main three types of saltwater cultured pearls that are used to make pearl jewelry can be divided into:
These are saltwater cultured pearls, usually small as their diameter is less than 10 mm. In the beginning, the name "Akoya" was used as a trade name for saltwater cultivated pearls from Japan. Over time, Akoya came to be called all pearls cultivated from the oysters Pinctada fucata, Pinctada martensii or Pinctada radiata from various parts of the world such as China, Korea, Vietnam, Hong Kong, Sri Lanka and the UAE.
Name
Saltwater pearls that are cultivated in the area between the Philippines, Australia and French Polynesia. The oyster used to cultivate them has the Latin name Pinctada maxima and is large in size. Ranging in diameter between 9-19 mm, this variety of pearl is usually larger than Akoya pearls, which
These are saltwater pearls whose natural color has dark hues ranging from gray to black. They are cultivated in the western and central Pacific in the oysters Pinctada margaritifera, and in the eastern Pacific between California and Peru in the oysters Pinctada mazatlanica and Pteria sterna. The black pearls cultivated in French Polynesia are most commonly called Tahitian. Sometimes the term black pearls is also used for artificially colored ones.
In the picture you can see a gold ring with saltwater Tahitian pearl and diamonds made by Efir for a client. For more information on how to order gold jewellery from Ethier, please visit the Ornaments page.
Freshwater pearls are cultured in rivers and lakes in freshwater mussels and each mussel can produce up to 30-50 pearls at a time. This is the reason why cultured freshwater pearls usually cost less than saltwater ones. The "father of freshwater pearl cultivation" is considered to be Masayo Fujita, who was able to discover a technique for cultivating whole freshwater pearls. Freshwater pearls are cultivated in many places around the world, the main ones being China, Japan, America, Europe and others. They are considered to be a good budget alternative to saltwater pearls from the South Sea and Akoya pearls.Pictured is a pearl necklace with a gold clasp made by Efir. Freshwater pearls were used to make the necklace. More information about ordering a piece of jewellery from Efir can be found on the Orders page.
Pictured is a pearl necklace with gold clasp made by Efir. Freshwater pearls were used to make the necklace. More information about ordering a piece of jewellery from Efir can be found on the Orders page.
These are freshwater pearls cultured in Japan's largest lake, Lake Biwa. The lake was one of the first places where mass cultivation of freshwater pearls began and is famous for the extremely high quality of its produce. Freshwater pearls were first cultivated there in 1925. However, the quantity of pearls from there declined dramatically towards the end of the 1980s due to water pollution and the declining level of the lake. Nowadays, the pearls that are sold as freshwater Biwa pearls mostly originate from China.
Japanese Katsumi pearlsFreshwater pearls derive their name from the Japanese lake Katsumi-ga-Ura. They are cultivated in hybrid mussels Hyriopsis schlegelii x Hyriopsis cumingii. Their size is usually 11-16 mm and the colour can vary from deep purple, pink, white to gold. The colour of the most precious specimens of this variety grades into rainbow hues and have an almost mirror-like lustre. They appeared on the market in the mid-1990s in limited quantities. Many of the pearls currently on the market as Katsumi are actually Chinese freshwater pearls, priced at about one-third the price of genuine Japanese Katsumi.
In addition to these, there are other varieties of cultured pearls that are used in jewelry such as:
These are pearls with dark coloration that are cultured in Akoya variety oysters and silver-lipped oysters. Unlike black and Tahitian pearls, the color of blue pearls is due to an external contaminant in the oyster itself.
Mikimoto is a trademark of pearls cultured and sold by the Mikimoto company. The founder of the company, Kokichi Mikimoto (1858-1954), who was also one of the pioneers of pearl cultivation, was famous for his nickname "The Pearl King". During his lifetime, Mikimoto spent a great deal of effort traveling the world and educating jewelers and customers. Thanks to him, cultured pearls are not considered imitations and have become a desirable and prized commodity in the jewelry industry. Nowadays, many of the pearls sold as Mikimoto pearls are not actually genuine. Only those that have an 18-karat gold clasp with the Mikimoto logo and have a certificate of authenticity issued by Mikimoto are genuine ones.
Not all pearls can only be found in saltwater oysters or freshwater mussels. For example, Abalone pearls are found in large snails of the genus Haliotis. They can be found along the coasts of California, Oregon, Alaska, Mexico, Japan, Korea, South Africa, Australia and New Zealand. This variety of pearl usually has a unique baroque shape as the color can vary between combinations and shades of green, blue, pink, purple, silver and in rarer cases, creamy white.
Abalon pearls are very rare as prices can range from $100 to $2,000 or more per carat. Their size also varies, from berry-sized to 718.50 carats - the largest abalone pearl in the world. Cultivating whole abalone pearls is very problematic because the blood of the abalone snail does not clot. For this reason, when a whole pearl nucleus is surgically implanted into the snail's body it bleeds to death. On the other hand, no surgical incision is required to culture blister pearls - the nucleus (usually a hemispherical plastic bead) is simply cemented to the inside of the abalone shell, which the snail later covers with a pearl.
Conch pearls can be found in the large sea snail Strombus gigas in the Caribbean. Although they are also called pink pearls their colour can vary in shades of orange, brown, white, yellow or purple. The most expensive Conch pearls are a deep pink or peach color and have a distinctive fire-like coloration. Because of their extreme rarity, even small irregularly shaped specimens can trade for over $500 per carat. The price of a Conch pearl with good characteristics can easily exceed $2,000 per carat. In 2009. The GIA announced that it finally had successful trials of culturing Conch pearls as the innovative method resulted in a 100% chance of survival for the snails in which the pearls were cultured.
Major pricing factors in pearls
The price of a cultured pearl or pearl jewel is the sum of factors such as size, shape, lustre, colour, surface quality of the pearl, quality of the nacre, whether it has been treated, variety and if the jewel itself has more than one pearl, their similarity and whether they can be successfully combined. As there are different types of natural and cultured pearls some of the factors vary according to the variety of pearl.
With all other factors being equal, the larger the size of a pearl of a particular species the higher its price will be. Size is usually measured in millimeters. For round pearls, this is their diameter. In cases where the pearl is irregularly shaped, the length and width are measured where they are greatest, and in some cases the depth is also measured.
ShapeShape is an important pricing factor. A round symmetrical shape is generally considered to be the most valuable for a pearl. This perception may have historically stemmed from the fact that pearls were thought to symbolize the moon. Round pearls with regular shapes are also the most difficult to cultivate. However, some of the most expensive pearls in history, which will be discussed in a separate article, are irregularly shaped.
According to what variety the pearl is, the shapes can be divided into round, nearly round, semi-baroque, baroque, oval, pear-shaped, and others.
LusterOf pricing factors, this is one of the most important. The luster adds to the beauty and uniqueness of the pearl. Pearls with a strong luster reflect light strongly and distinctly and have a good contrast between the light and dark parts of the pearl. Pearls with a weak lustre look milky, dull and hazy. According to the GIA, lustre can be graded on the following scale:
Excellent - the reflection is clear and distinct (mirror-like)
Very good - glare is clear and almost distinct
Good - glare is bright but not as sharp and is hazy around the edges
Satisfactory - reflections are faint and hazy
Poor - reflections are faint and diffuse
According to GIA, the colour of pearls is made up of three components. The color of the body of the pearl is the dominant color. The tint is one or more semi-transparent colors that can be distinguished on the main body color. The third component is called the orient, a sheen of iridescent colors on or just below the pearl surface. All pearls have a body color, but only some have tints and/or orient.
Pearls, according to their variety, can be of different colors and hues. All other factors being identical, saltwater ones that have a yellowish color are usually worth less than those that are white or light pink. South Sea golden pearls from Indonesia and the Philippines are the exception and can cost as much or more than white South Sea pearls in the event the gold color is natural and rich.Black pearls (their color is not actually black, but gray) can be worth as much as white pearls of the same size and quality, provided they have shades and are not pure gray in color. The shades seen in the lighter parts of black pearls can be greenish, pink, blue or violet.
Pink tints are a desirable feature in white pearls and are noticeable in the darker parts of the pearl. Greenish and yellowish hues usually reduce the value of white pearls all other factors being identical. Sometimes pearls may have iridescent colors, which is considered a positive and desirable characteristic.
Like natural gemstones, pearls can rarely be perfect. There may be irregularities on the surface, discoloration on parts of the pearl, microscopic cracks and scratches as well as others. The fewer these imperfections the more expensive the pearl is all other factors being identical. If the imperfections are few it is possible that they will be hidden when the pearl is mounted on a piece of jewelry.
The thickness of the nacre is not considered a price factor in naturally formed pearls because they are primarily made of it. On the other hand, it is one of the key factors in cultured saltwater pearls. If the pearl is not left in the oyster long enough, it will not have time to coat it with the required number of microscopic layers of nacre. As a result, the pearl will not have the desired luster and strength. If the core of the pearl is visible below the nacre shell then it is considered too thin. Typically, cultured saltwater pearls from the South Sea have a thicker nacre shell than cultured saltwater Akoya. On the other hand, for freshwater cultured pearls this is not as significant a factor.
Artificially coloured pearls cost less than those with natural colour and tints. Treatments by polishing the pearls affect the price less than artificial colouring. As a rule, the more characteristics are due to the pearl's natural and natural qualities, the more valuable it is.
Saltwater pearls can cost several times more than freshwater pearls of the same qualities and size. This is due to the fact that saltwater oysters can usually produce one or sometimes two pearls while freshwater mussels can produce up to 40 at a time.
Finding the perfect pair of pearls for earrings or a necklace can be extremely difficult. For this reason, similar pearls are almost always sought after and cost more.
Pictured here are the playful children's earrings with cat ears custom made by Efir. For the earrings, a size and color matched pair of freshwater pearls were selected. More information on how to order gold jewellery from Efir can be found on the Orders page.
Part of the standard treatment of cultured pearls involves cleaning and washing them immediately after collection to remove dirt and odors. The process is usually carried out in rotating salt containers. The process itself must be carefully monitored to ensure that the pearls are not damaged.
On the other hand, there are treatments that are not considered routine and we will cover some of these in this article.
Chinese freshwater pearls, as well as Akoya pearls, are often bleached with chemicals and exposed to strong light sources. This makes the pearls themselves appear whiter and have a uniform color. Tahitian pearls may undergo a similar treatment to give them a brownish color, after which they are marketed as "chocolate pearls."
Pearl polishing is usually done to improve luster, clean grease and dirt, and remove small scratches on the surface of the pearl. Occasionally, pearls may be additionally treated with beeswax or chemicals.
Acoya pearls, South Sea pearls, and Black and Tahitian pearls may be treated with silicone polymers. Sometimes Chinese freshwater pearls are also coated with a similar transparent polymer film to improve their lustre. This type of treatment can be recognised by the unusually smooth feel of the pearl compared to untreated specimens, as well as where the layer has worn off and the difference is noticeable. With a thicker layer, there may be areas of small air bubbles and pockets of dirt that are noticeable by examining the surface through magnifying instruments.
Cultured baroque pearls of poor quality may be filled with epoxy if they are partially hollow or have a loose core. This practice improves the wear resistance of the bead. It is also possible to apply a similar technique to hollow naturally formed pearls to increase their weight, because they are usually sold according to their weight. Such fills can be detected with an X-ray.
Acoya pearls can be dipped in a pink solution to give them the desired pink hue. Yellow and golden pearls may also have undergone a staining process as they are particularly popular in Asia. Although it is possible to recognize this treatment by examining microscopic cracks and holes with magnifying instruments, some specimens have extremely high quality treatments and can only be recognized with certainty in a certified laboratory.
A fluorescence test can be used to recognize signs of staining in black and Tahitian pearls. Naturally colored black pearls will have anywhere from a bright red fluorescence like the Baja, California pearls to a dull reddish brown fluorescence in the Tahitian pearls. Artificially colored black pearls usually either show no signs of fluorescence or emit a dull greenish color.
This is one of the most common methods of darkening Akoya pearls. The process involves immersing the pearls in a solution of silver nitrate and dilute ammonia, after which they are exposed to light or hydrogen sulfide gas. This treatment can usually be detected with an X-ray.
South Sea pearls are often heated, which intensifies their colour intensity. This treatment can only be detected with high-tech equipment in a laboratory.
Unfortunately, nowadays the market is flooded with imitation pearls that have neither been naturally formed nor cultured. These are imitations that have been created with artificial materials and usually have no value. Some traders may call the imitations "semi-cultured pearls" in order to deceive the customer. Imitations existed even in the 17th century so the fact that a pearl is old is no guarantee that it is not an imitation. There are several types of tests for identifying imitations that can be used outside of specialist laboratories:
Very gently rub the pearl against the biting side of your front teeth. If the pearl feels rough or gritty then it is most likely a natural or cultured pearl. If it is quite smooth to the feel then it may mean it is an imitation. However, this test has its drawbacks and does not always work - if care is not taken the pearl itself can be scratched. In addition, some imitations are likely to be rough to the touch and some real pearls can be smooth to the touch especially if they have been polished. Therefore, it is important not to rely on this type of test alone, but to use it in combination with other types of tests.
The surface of imitation pearls under 10x magnification (a gem magnifying glass) appears grainy (like the "grain" effect in photographs). If the surface of the pearl looks smooth it could mean that it is natural or cultured. However, it is possible that there is accumulated dirt on the surface of the pearl, leading to false conclusions. Also, some freshwater specimens as well as those from the South Sea may appear under a magnifying glass to have a slightly grainy surface, but still not be imitations.
If you have the opportunity to view the surface of the pearl with a microscope at a higher magnification (over 50x magnification) then the surface of real specimens may look like a maze or like a fingerprint. These lines cannot always be spotted from the start. Try to use strong light and examine the surface from different angles. On the other hand, the rough, grainy surface suggests that it may be an imitation. Interestingly, imitations that are smooth to the feel test under a magnifying glass appear rough and grainy, while natural and cultured pearls that are rough to the feel test under a magnifying glass appear smooth.
Examine the pearl for flaws with a 10x magnifying glass. If the pearl lacks any blemishes and looks perfect, it may be an imitation. On the other hand, noticeable flaws such as surface irregularities, discoloration on parts of the pearl, microscopic cracks and scratches, and others may indicate that it is not an imitation.
Examine the pearls and note whether they look perfectly uniform in terms of shape, size, luster, and color. If the pearls don't differ even slightly on these parameters then this may indicate that they are man-made imitations.
Place the pearl in your hand. If it feels unusually light then it is probably made of plastic or filled with wax. Glass imitations are likely to have a similar weight to the real thing.
Note what materials the jewel is made of. If expensive materials have been used such as gold, platinum, diamonds and other natural gemstones then the likelihood of the pearl being real is greater although this is not a guarantee in itself.
If the price of pearls is incredibly low or they are offered at a big discount then it may mean that they are imitations.
In this article we have looked at the origins and varieties of pearls as well as their main characteristics. In addition, we have looked at what factors affect their price, as well as some of the treatments they may be subjected to. We have presented a few tests that any of you can do to distinguish imitation from real cultured pearls.
We hope this article will help you make an informed purchase of pearl jewelry or simply enrich your knowledge in this field.
Efir offers both jewellery from its own collections and making gold jewellery with pearls and/or gemstones to customer's designs. We work only with natural stones and precious metals.
No matter what you choose, our Expert Gemologist will help you with your choice of stone and crafting your dream gold jewelry according to your budget.
