Describe the dimensions of the jewellery you imagine in centimetres or millimetres. This will help us calculate the approximate weight of gold needed for its manufacture.
In the table, we have presented the inner diameter of each ring size and the corresponding European size (the size number corresponds to the inner circumference of the ring). For us, the only accurate method to determine the correct size is the use of jewellery measurements. All other methods we have tried result in minimal to significant deviations.
If you have a ring that fits, measure its inner diameter with a caliper.
*For orders we have already taken, we can provide and send jeweller’s measurements for you to take an accurate measurement.
If you have any questions, feel free to contact us for assistance.
| Diameter (mm) | EU |
|---|---|
| 14.3 | 45 |
| 14.7 | 46 |
| 15.0 | 47 |
| 15.3 | 48 |
| 15.6 | 48 |
| 16.0 | 50 |
| 16.3 | 51 |
| 16.6 | 52 |
| 17 | 53 |
| 17.2 | 54 |
| 17.5 | 55 |
| 17.8 | 56 |
| 18.1 | 57 |
| 18.4 | 58 |
| 18.8 | 59 |
| 19.1 | 60 |
| 19.4 | 61 |
| 19.7 | 62 |
| 20 | 63 |
| 20.4 | 64 |
| 20.7 | 65 |
| 21 | 66 |
| 21.3 | 67 |
| 21.7 | 68 |
| 22 | 69 |
Choosing a bracelet length is important, as most bracelets are difficult to shorten and lengthen. Below, we have outlined the recommended steps to help you determine the right length for your wrist.
If you have a bracelet that fits perfectly, measure its length including the clasp.
* Note that there may be a slight difference between your left and right wrist.
The choice of necklace length may depend on the characteristics of your body and the features of the jewellery. As a guide, we have graphically depicted the standard lengths of chains to help you visualize your options.
The ability to distinguish a real ruby from other gemstones requires gemological knowledge and experience, and in most cases expensive equipment. However, in this article we will look at some of the methods and tests that can be done if desired by anyone at home.
Note: If you want to learn about the basic characteristics of rubies or are just starting to research about how to choose ruby jewelry we recommend you start first with Part I of this article:"Ruby: What You Need to Know When Choosing Ruby Jewelry"
If the ruby is set on a jewel note whether the pavilion (back of the stone) is visible or completely hidden in the metal. Usually the pavilion of a faceted ruby is at least partially visible when mounted on a piece of jewelry. For this reason, if you can only see the top or crown of the stone there may be something wrong.
A visible pavilion is by no means an indication that the stone is a natural ruby. Often glass imitations are mounted with a visible pavilion. However, a completely hidden pavilion may be a suggestion of some irregularity. The stone may have a foiled back or a metallic coating may have been added to enhance the color and luster. Another possibility is that the stone was glued together from two separate pieces.
It is possible that the design of the jewel was simply designed this way, so do not rely entirely on this test. Also, very small stones are often mounted by mirror mounting (pressing into the metal to set) and thus the pavilion remains hidden.
For example, in these custom made wedding rings by Efir, hidden gemstones are mounted on the inside according to the client's wishes - two rubies on the male ring and two diamonds on the female ring.
Consider whether the ruby or ruby jewel has an unusually temptingly low price or is sold with a high discount. This can serve as an additional indication to you that something is wrong. Rubies are one of the most expensive colored gemstones, and usually the price of a nice specimen is high.
If the ruby under 10x magnification (gemological loupe) does not have any inclusions and looks perfect then the likelihood that the stone is an imitation or synthetic ruby is high, especially if it is a large specimen with a rich color. Usually, even high quality rubies have inclusions, some of which are only characteristic of natural stones. However, some of the smaller stones under half a carat may appear without inclusions under 10x magnification.
Polaroid Test (Double Refraction)This test is performed with an instrument called a Polaroid scope. This is a relatively simple instrument which is itself two polaroid filters mounted in metal above a light source. A stone is placed between them and examined for characteristic signs.
Because of the crystalline structure of the corundum, the light entering it is split into two beams. The two beams travel at different speeds and are perpendicular to each other. This optical phenomenon is called double refraction or dichroism.Doubly refracting gemstones such as ruby, emerald and sapphire will have alternating lightened and darkened areas as they are rotated between the two polaroids.
On the other hand, glass and minerals such as garnet and spinel, which are often confused with rubies, are single refractive. This means that light passes through them at the same speed and in all directions. When they are rotated between two polaroids, they remain dark on all sides.
However, it is possible that in some cases singly refractive stones show anomalies, meaning that they may change from dark to light as they rotate. Unlike double-refractive stones, however, these anomalies are less distinctive and less clearly noticeable.How to make a polaroid test with handy materials to identify rubiesIf you have a pair of old sunglasses with polaroid lenses you can do the above test yourself at home. Besides the glasses you will also need a wide wine or cognac glass. Take one of the sunglasses' lenses out. Old Polaroid camera filters can also be used instead of sunglasses. The test is carried out as follows:
For the above Polaroid test to work at home and with materials at hand, the following criteria must be met:
If you examine a ruby from different angles you may notice both red and red-orange colors. This is due to the fact that ruby is doubly refractive and divides the light passing through it into two rays perpendicular to each other.
The test is performed using an instrument called a dichroscope, a cylindrical device about the size of an AA battery. When you look through the correct side of the instrument a well-lit ruby will show two squares or two circles. The squares/circles can be two different colors if the stone has a clear dichroism. By turning the dichroscope and examining the ruby from different angles you should notice the two colors the stone emits (in some directions only one of the colors may be visible).
If the stone is a ruby then it will show both red-orange and red (violet-red) colours.
Imitations such as glass and cubic zirconia emit only one color regardless of the position and angle from which they are viewed. Single refractive semi-precious stones such as garnet and spinel also emit only one color. Other double refractive semi-precious stones such as red tourmaline will emit other colours. For example, red tourmaline will emit red and light red.
One of the most common imitations of ruby is glass. If you know the characteristics of glass you will find it easier to distinguish it from ruby. Some of the characteristics of glass imitations are as follows:
If you approach a faceted ruby from towards its face (the table) very close to your eyes and look at a light source through the stone you should see blue and red images. This is an indication that the stone is either a natural or synthetic (lab created) ruby. The stone acts as a prism that creates unique spectral images. Usually the images are double when viewed through the girdle of the natural ruby. Verneuil - a synthetic ruby usually splits the images when viewed through the face (girdle) or crown. This test is also called the Hodgkinson Test in honor of Scottish scientist Alan Hodgkinson, who dedicated his life to popularizing this simple and inexpensive method of gem identification.
Ruby placed under ultraviolet light has fluorescence. To distinguish between specimens, the stone is placed under short-wave or long-wave ultraviolet light and compared to other specimens of the same color. Fluorescence is always used as an additional test when identifying synthetic stones or determining the geographic origin of a natural stone. For example, Thai natural rubies typically have the least distinct fluorescence response under short-wave ultraviolet light when compared to natural rubies from other locations.
You can see rubies, garnets, and tourmaline under ultraviolet light in the photo. The three rubies shine brightly illuminated by UV 365nm light.
By properly applying several of the above tests and methods, you should easily be able to distinguish the ruby gemstone from its most common imitations such as glass, garnet, spinel, etc. On the other hand, however, it is much more difficult to distinguish a natural ruby from a synthetically created one in a laboratory setting, since practically both stones are rubies.
In these cases, it is best to go to a certified laboratory that has professional equipment or to a gemologist you trust.
There are some methods that can give you a clue as to whether a ruby is natural or synthetic. We will look at some of these in this section.
Generally, large natural rubies over 1-2 carats are cut as ovals and mixed cushion cuts. Large natural rubies cut as a step cut emerald or brilliant can be found, but much more difficult. On the other hand, synthetic ruby is often cut in these shapes.
Another style of cut found in synthetic rubies is the so-called scissor-cut. It is used for stones with a rectangular shape. The facets of this type of cut form an "X" on all four sides of the crown. If you notice this type of cut on a ruby, you should be extremely careful - it is usually not a natural stone.
The most easily distinguishable with this type of test are synthetic rubies and color-changing sapphires.
The presence of curved lines (think of the lines on a phonograph record) that extend through the facets of the stone are proof that the ruby is synthetic. These lines can usually be spotted under 10x magnification (gem magnification) directly through the face of the stone . However, to spot them you may need to examine the stone from several different sides by letting the light illuminate the different facets. A quality lamp or daylight coming in through a window are acceptable sources of illumination for this test. Try to direct the light through the side of the stone. Then rotate the stone so that the light enters through the pavilion (back).
These lines are present in most synthetic rubies. They should not be confused, however, with polishing marks, which do not pass through the individual facets.
The test described in the previous section for distinguishing rubies from their imitations can also serve as a warning signal in distinguishing a natural ruby from a synthetic one.
If both colors are visible looking directly through the face (table) of the stone, it is likely to be a synthetic ruby. A natural ruby that is evenly colored is usually not cut in a way that would show both colors looking directly through the face with a dichroscope.
Synthetic stones often have very small bubbles, which may be round or in the shape of a cocoon or tadpole. In new synthetics, these bubbles are hard to detect by an ordinary person. They are also in danger of being mistaken for dust or tiny inclusions.
Many techniques have been devised to trick buyers into thinking that the stone is better quality than it actually is. Listed below are the most common ones, which are usually done with the intent of deceiving the buyer.
Back polishing is done to add extra color and sparkle to the stone. With the development of cutters and the ability to add more sparkle, foiling is becoming less popular. Nowadays, it can be found on pale-coloured ruby cabochons. However, it is most commonly applied to glass imitations. However, you must be extremely careful if you buy antique ruby jewelry because foiling was once common.
Be careful when the back of the stone is completely hidden and not visible in the jewelry. In such cases, the foiling may have been intentionally hidden, especially if the stone is unusually bright in color.
Plastic, paint, or nail polish are among the substances used to coat rubies. This is usually done to enhance the color of the ruby and fool the buyer into thinking the stone is more valuable than it actually is. Sometimes only the back of the stone is coated to saturate the color. If the stone is mounted in the jewel without the back of the stone showing the coating is difficult to see.
Examining the stone under a magnifying glass is usually the best way to detect such coatings.
Composite stones are made by gluing two or more different stones or glass pieces together. When the stone consists of two parts it is called a doublet and when the parts are three it is called a triplet. If the bonding of the two parts is done by a colored cementing substance then the stone is considered a triplet because the substance itself is a third component.
The key to identifying a composite stone is finding where the parts are cemented together. For stones that are mounted in a piece of jewelry, this is much more difficult to identify.
Stones that are not mounted on a piece of jewelry can be immersed in water. The water can give different hues to the different parts or to the bonding layer.
Stones that are already mounted on a piece of jewelry can be examined under a magnifying glass.
In this article, we looked at tests that each of you can do to distinguish between imitation and synthetic rubies.
We hope that this article will help you make an informed purchase of ruby jewelry or simply enrich your knowledge in this area.
Efir offers both jewelry from our own collections and bespoke custom-made gold jewelry with rubies and/or other gemstones. We work only with natural stones and precious metals.
No matter what you choose, our Expert Gemologist will help you with your choice of stone and crafting your dream gold jewelry according to your budget.
Make sure to read the first part of the article dedicated to rubies: "Ruby: What You Need to Know When Choosing Ruby Jewelry"
